Pakistan & India

Sunday March 31st
Set off about 6.00, and went to Zahedan where we had our passport photographs photostatted ready for Pakistan formalities. Had breakfast in the road while we waited. Got road pass from Pakistan Consulate and drove on to Mirjawa, where we had to dig the customs out to come and deal with us. On to Zanazak Post (Pakistan customs on entry to Baluchistan) – driving on left again – 75 miles on to official Pakistan customs, down worst road ever, where we eventually completed formalities. Ran petrol on “E” for some way, and were relieved to find a pump eventually. Have now bought large oil can (4 gallon) to hold spare petrol. Put watches forward 1½ hours.

Are camping outside Nok-Kundi (the customs post) with the Carters. Just about to have a drink with them.

Speedometer Reading: 5664    Mileage: 231

Monday April 1st
Left at 7.00. Got to Dalbandin (first petrol stop) at 11.00. No petrol at petrol pumps. Eventually tracked petrol down in Militia HQ where “Petrol Wallah” had to syphon 5 gallons for us out of a large tank, by sucking it up through a pipe. A really one horse place. Very hot and flies everywhere. Peter is finding the heat a bit much – rather stifling, but it suits me all right – anything’s better than being cold.

Last night had to buy Shell petrol, which gave very poor performance. Our petrol consumption has risen alarmingly – don’t know if it’s the poor petrol or whether we have a leak.

Arrived in Quetta at 6.00 p.m. and have put up for the night at the old Resthouse. Had 200 miles of asphalt road before Quetta which was a great relief. Found jerry can by the side of the road which we quickly grabbed, as our oil can we are using for spare petrol does not pour properly. Spring-cleaned van on arrival at Resthouse. Resthouse very “bush” but Manager kind and helpful. He keeps showing us his kitchen with pride and joy – it has every type of utensil in it, including a gas cooker, which is his great pride and joy. There is, however, no gas laid on, but this does not seem to worry him, and he explained that when he wants to use the oven, he simply lights a fire on the floor underneath. He keeps asking us if we have any cookers, refrigerators, saucepans etc., that we want to sell. In spite of the kitchen and its contents, no evening meal is laid on, so we went out and had a chicken curry – delicious.

We were brought buckets of water, and had a good wash, and I washed my hair. We were filthy from our 3½ days on the dust roads.

Speedometer Reading: 5997    Mileage: 333

(The events of this day are related, with some embellishment, in an article I wrote 30 years later)   Click here to read Eastward Ho!

Tuesday April 2nd
Had good sleep at the Resthouse – breakfast in rooms. Started on journey to Lahore via Multan. Have found that our free jerry can has a leak in it. Have many miles to go tomorrow with no petrol supplies en route, so have wasted a lot of time trying to buy a can, but no luck. It is very hot by day, but cools off a bit at night. Have landed up for the night at Jacobabad, outside the gaol, which is next door to the Police station. Flies are ghastly. Police have chased the local population away. Hope there is not a mass break-out from the gaol tonight. At least we are providing them with a bit of interest, as they are watching us through the bars. We have had all the Police force, both on and off duty, talking to us. They have very kindly mended the leak in our jerry can, and have given us presents, which I am sure they can ill-afford. I have been given a fountain pen, and Peter a key-ring and box for cigarettes. They have been very kind and friendly, and would not let us pay anything for mending the can. We could only offer cigarettes all round.

Speedometer Reading: 6206    Mileage: 209

Wednesday April 3rd
Left the Police station at 7.00 a.m., giving a lift as far as Sukkur to a young student who goes to college there, and who had been talking to us last night. He has our names and address and wants to write to us. After Sukkur the road was poor, with exceptionally bad patches – sandy, and full of pot-holes. One pot-hole, really deep, hit us out of the blue (I was driving) and we saw, to our horror, the entire roof-rack, piled high with food, petrol cans, and all the butterfly equipment, soar into the air and land with a thump in the middle of the road about 4 feet in front of us. The three setting board boxes which Peter had taken so much trouble over had broken but are mendable – a 2lb jar of marmalade was reduced to atoms, and everything was covered in sand. It took an hour to sort it out, and replace the two bolts which had sheared off completely. We then had to get everything back onto the rack again, and the rack on the van roof. Later in the day, we had to brake sharply to avoid a child who ran out from behind a bus, and the rack slid to the edge of the roof, but luckily did not fall right off. However, one of the rubber cushions fell off and could not be found, and Peter has had to make an improvised one out of several layers of cork which he screwed together. He also roped the whole rack round the sky-light. So far, so good. The rack is definitely too far forward on the roof for safety. We are fascinated here with the gaily coloured lorries – beautifully decorated and painted inside and out.

Further on we stopped at a garage in a small village to ask if they could cash travellers cheques for us as we are running very low in Pakistan rupees. At the border we were given 20 rupees to the pound, but have since found that the Bank rate is only 13. Black Market rates vary from 13 – 20, and in a restaurant in Quetta we were given 17. Pound notes will fetch more than the Travellers cheques, and most Black Market sources will not take cheques anyway. We are very low in notes, and must get some more. The petrol pump chap took us to a Bank, but they could not let us have any money. Back at the filling station we were given cold drinks and tea, and we produced chocolate biscuits – all melted and very messy, and a bit stale. We were covered in sand and oil from our struggles with the roof rack and he let us have a wash in his wash-house. We felt much better afterwards.

Further on, we stopped at a country Police station for shelter for the night. They were very kind, augmenting our rather dull mince with some of their curry and a chapatti each, and giving us tea to drink. The Sergeant insisted we sleep in his room, much against my better judgement, and he moved in next door. I had a hard bed with a very thin mattress and Peter had to make do with a charpoy. The Dormobile would have been more comfortable and cooler. There was a rat in the room making a noise all night, and it was very hot and airless.

Before we turned in for the night, the Sergeant (who spoke good English) came in and talked to us, bubbling away at his hookah. He seemed proud of the fact that he had served in the Police Force under the British.

Speedometer Reading: 6454    Mileage: 248

Thursday April 4th
Woke early and on the road for Multan by 6.00. Crossed over Panjnad river dam (one way traffic) – bad road. Appalling road as far as Multan where we cashed money – poor Bank rate, only 11 rupees to the Pound. Very good road after Multan – drove on to Lahore where we looked up our Pakistani acquaintance’s family. They have shown us tremendous hospitality and kindness, but it’s a very odd set-up. Typical Asian way of life – no sanitation, and the women relegated to the kitchen. I was made to have a bath in a tin hip bath in the kitchen while the Mother and daughter-in-law cooked the supper. Most embarrassing. We ate our food in our fingers and afterwards were taken out round the town and persuaded to chew betel nut which was revolting.

I’ve discovered that the worst has happened. I’ve lost my handbag. It was bound to happen sooner or later. £15 or so gone, and my lighter, and various addresses etc. Will have to get more money tomorrow and another bag. The Hassan family insist we stay two nights, but I don’t think I could face it – very kind of them, but I’d sooner get on our way. All the family (7 boys) have good training – lawyers, engineers, teachers etc. Father was a Superintendent in the P.W.D.

Think my bag must have fallen out of the van when we changed over driving just as we entered Lahore. I usually drove through the towns as Peter is a much better navigator than I am.

Speedometer Reading: 6790    Mileage: 336

Friday April 5th
Left Mr. Hassan’s house at 8.00 for shops and sight-seeing, with one of the sons – very kind of him to give up his day for us. He has eye-shadow on, and offered Peter some – very odd! Peter has managed to make the indicators and fuel gauge and temperature gauge work – they all packed up on the bumpy roads. Saw Tomb of King Jehangir and his Queen – quite fabulous – the paintwork is still as it was originally in the 16th Century – in murals. On to Shahi Mosque, next door to which is the Tomb of Ranjit Singh. Saw Shahi Fort (Mogul) and museum of firearms and weapons. Went to market and bought new handbag. Had curry lunch in restaurant. After lunch went to Poste Restante, but it was closed so we could not ask for letters. Visited Shalimar Gardens which were beautiful, but covered in litter and orange peel.

The camera I bought in Teheran does not work either, so I have been unable to take any photographs – trust the Persians to sell you something that doesn’t work. Flies in Lahore the worst I have ever seen –they sit like a carpet on all the food stalls, and on the edge of your plate or glass.

Left Lahore about 3.00 p.m. – thankful to get away from the crowds and the flies and traffic. Very pretty run to Hussainiwala (Border into India) – then put up at Police Post at Ferozepore – just in India. All Police are now Sikhs and seem very friendly.

Speedometer Reading: 6887    Mileage: 97

Saturday April 6th
Set off about 6.00 a.m. Peter not feeling well so I drove to Delhi – got there about 3.00, and had terrific welcome from the Lendrums who are being terribly kind and hospitable – considering we have arrived a good week before they expected us, and also Brian has just been promoted to High Commissioner from Deputy, and they are in the midst of various functions, and presenting of Credentials etc. Our extremely dirty van, in the front drive, does not really lend much tone to the neighbourhood! Had lovely hot bath and feel clean for the first time in three weeks! Peter feeling better by tea-time and seems O.K. now (bedtime). We are sharing a room so he will have to continue putting up with my snoring! No letters here yet, but we hope for some soon. The Lendrums are out tonight, but we have been very well looked after by a fleet of excellent servants. Very friendly and pleasant. Have found that even the clothes I have not yet worn are filthy from all the dust of the desert – so really have very little to wear that is respectable.

Speedometer Reading: 7165    Mileage: 278

(Brian and Ann Lendrum lived in Singapore at the same time as us. Brian was New Zealand High Commissioner, and they were great friends of my parents. Ann and my mother used to travel up-country to catch butterflies, and Ann’s small collection is now in the museum at Auckland. After being High Commissioner in Delhi, Brian went on to be Ambassador in Bonn, and then got the top posting as High Commissioner in London. Michèle and I visited Brian in Auckland in 2009 during our round-the-world trip. He had met every important political leader of his time, including Mao Tse-Tung, Lee Kwan Yew, Thatcher and various US Presidents, and had a fund of amusing stories about them all. He died in 2012 at the age of 91.)

Sunday April 7th
Now that we have come to roost for a few days and can sleep and enjoy some creature comforts, we realise just how tired we both were. We have usually driven 14 hours each day, latterly very tiring driving – since we left home. Lovely to relax for a few days. Watched tennis at the club in the morning, and went to midday drinks party.

Monday April 8th
Peter obviously has a tummy bug – picked up, I should think in Lahore – all those flies and the green water we drank at the Hassans, not to mention their evil sanitation. The bearer has cleaned the Dormobile for us, very kindly.

Changed some money and got 20 rupees to the pound. Better than the Bank rate which is only about 18.

We are trying to find out about ships from Madras to Malaya through the American Express. Originally we were going to Calcutta, not knowing anything about it, but people we have talked to think that we stand a better chance of getting something from Madras. Sent letters home.

Tuesday April 9th
Got Doctor’s prescription for Peter, and hope it will do the trick. Lendrums had a steamboat party in the evening on the verandah. The Maharaja of Baroda was there – he was most entertaining with a fund of good stories.

Peter seemed better by the evening.

Wednesday April 10th
Have been completely unsuccessful in finding out about ships to Malaya, so have decided to set off tomorrow for Agra, and then down to Madras, and try to arrange it on the spot.

Thursday April 11th
Left Delhi after an early lunch – the Lendrums having left for holiday up in the hills. Servants very helpful, and we took away sandwiches, fruit, butter and bacon, etc. Left 3 of our blankets (which we hope we shall not need again) as presents for them, which they seemed very pleased with. Drove on very good road to Agra, (120 miles) and went straight to see the Taj Mahal. (4.00 p.m.) Had sandwiches for supper and a cup of tea. Are staying on here till after dark to see the Taj by moonlight.

Saw Taj by nearly full moon – the precious stones glitter by the light of the moon. A very greasy Indian offered us a piece of land to camp on for the night, about 2 miles away, but we didn’t like the look of it, and he wanted 5 rupees – it wasn’t his land anyway – so we returned to the precincts of the Taj, and asked if we could park in the car park just outside the main gates, and were told we could. Felt very insignificant beside so magnificent a Monument! Nightwatchman touting for tips, but refuse to give him anything tonight. Don’t think he likes us much, but we like being here.

Speedometer Reading: 7299    Mileage: 134

Friday April 12th
Left Agra at 6.30, having tipped the nightwatchman the large sum of 2 rupees, which he was not at all pleased with. If he had done anything for us, and had not been asking for tips the whole of the previous evening, we should doubtless have been more generous!

On way to Madras (1200 – 1300 miles) via Gwalior. Peter has adjusted accelerator pedal which was sticking. Stopped at Army canteen in Jhansi for some drinking water, and as well as getting some nice fresh looking water, we were invited in to one of the married quarters for a cold drink and had a bath too. Good sluice down and felt much fresher. Were then taken off to buy bread and chapatti and given 6 eggs – very kind. We eat a lot of chapatti – bread is seldom available and chapatti and marmalade go very well together. Aunt of Army wife took us round – she is Eurasian and has a sister living in Wimbledon (small world). Stopped for lunch under tree – chapatti and butter and marmalade. The butter is liquid and is running all over the place – our watercooled box is quite useless in this heat, and we shall have to abandon anything that melts.

Drove on to Sagar where we tried for night protection at Police Post, and Army H.Q., but no luck, so came to resthouse where, for 3 rupees 40 paese we can sleep in the van and eat our own food, and have use of resthouse bathroom. Resthouse Proprietor nice old boy – speaks English – everyone else here vile.

Speedometer Reading: 7593    Mileage: 294

Saturday April 13th
In the end we did not stay at the resthouse as a very nice Indian Army Major came and chatted to us and insisted we return to his house for dinner and the night. They were very interested in our trip. He and his wife, both Eurasian, Owen and Coral Cameron, were incredibly kind – cold drinks followed by gin, dinner and bath, and two beds made up for us. She brought us early morning tea, and gave us breakfast, and then they showed us the right road for Nagpur, our next objective. We liked them so much and they were amazingly kind. He has a brother living in London and we have their, and the brother’s address, and would like to see them again.

They have also given us the name of the bossman of the A.A. of India in Madras, which should prove useful when we get there. They have two sons at Boarding school in South India, and a nice little girl of 11, Susie, whom we met.

Have settled for night at Warora – in resthouse grounds – sleeping and eating in van, but having a sluice down in resthouse bathroom. Resthouse proprietor will accept no charge.

Speedometer Reading: 7923   Mileage: 330

Sunday April 14th
Left Warora at 7.00 a.m. Have had to go cross country, away from main trunk road, as the road between Nagpur and Hyderabad is closed at one point, due, we gather, to a bridge being down. Pretty road, but back to dust track for a stretch. People here much more colourful in dress. Decided to stick to our cross country road, missing Hyderabad completely. Very hot and thirsty all day – ate masses of oranges, which are very cheap and most refreshing, as we have no means of cooling water for a cool drink. Temp about 100 degrees F. we gather. Arrived at Kamman – resthouse closed for repair – were taken to another resthouse with a filthy dirty, and morose proprietor, who would not produce any water. As it was getting dark by now, and we still had nowhere to go, we went to the Police station, where they were singularly unhelpful, unobliging, and asked a lot of impertinent questions, and insisted on looking at our passports for no apparent reason. They suggested we got shelter for the night at an Australian Mission in Kamman – and we eventually slept in the Guest Wing of a ramshackle house run by an Australian couple. They were kindness itself – produced pots of tea, and then inexhaustible supplies of cold fresh lime to drink. Hot water for washing, and breakfast in the morning as well as early morning tea. They could not have been kinder. I slept in the bedroom and Peter had a bed on the verandah.

Speedometer Reading: 8242    Mileage: 319

Monday April 15th
After breakfast we left the Mission (Rev. and Mrs Pullen) armed with boiled and chilled water in our thermos. They had found a paper with the name of a ship sailing from Madras to Penang on 20th, and handed it to us. It is B.I. Line and goes on to Port Swettenham and Singapore. Whether we shall get on it remains to be seen. I would think it is doubtful, but we just might – if they have room for the van.

Drove to Gutur where we stopped early – 4.00-ish, as it seemed the last likely place for a P.W.D. Resthouse. Will sleep in van, and use their washing facilities. No charge, except for tip for watchman who will provide water for washing. Peter is changing the plugs as we are pinking worse than ever and today have been stalling constantly. I am drinking innumerable cups of tea – much more refreshing than luke-warm water, and will shortly pull myself together and clean out the van which is, once again, filthy – so are we.

Speedometer Reading: 8525    Mileage: 283

Tuesday April 16th
Left Gudur at 7.00 a.m. Arrived Madras at 9 o’clock and went straight to the A.A. We went straight along to introduce ourselves to Colonel Osman – the Secretary, and the friend of Major Cameron. He was most helpful and we managed to book ourselves and the van on the B.I. ship “Rajula” leaving Madras on 20th for Penang. It is costing a great deal more than we expected – but there is no other means of getting there. We had hoped for a cheap passage on a cargo boat, but there is nothing running.

Have booked into a Tourist Hostel – very reasonable prices and clean with pleasant service. Made friends with 5 people all travelling in Volkswagen Dormobile – have been on the road for 4 months, on their way to Australia. They are also going on the Rajula in their van. They must be very cramped but seem to enjoy life. Kathy, one of the girls, cut my hair for me – with any luck I may get it looking a bit better once it is washed now that it is tidier. We all went for a gorgeous swim on a beach nearby this evening – Lovely, but fierce undertow, so we did not go far out.

Speedometer Reading: 8625    Mileage: 100

Wednesday April 17th
Spent the morning organising ourselves and the van to sail in “Rajula” on Saturday. Most exhausting business, and we seem to shunt backwards and forwards between the shipping Company, Emigration, Customs, and the Agents, who I think we could have done without, anyway. I am not sure we are not being taken for a ride by someone, but as long as we get on board with our papers in order, that is the main thing – it is all going to cost the earth anyway. I don’t know how Peter finds his way round – I should have given up and gone home ages ago – he also understands the mass of paperwork involved which is Greek to me, and I should never have coped on my own. Thank Goodness I have him to lean on. It’s all much more complicated than I would have thought possible.

Had lunch in van on beach just outside Madras. Collapsed exhausted on our beds in afternoon. The whole day has worn me out. I don’t know how Peter finds his way back to our Hostel – I should never have got back at all.

Thursday April 18th
Went off at 9.30 with the V.W. family in our respective vans, to Mahabalipurum – 40 miles south of Madras, where there is a lovely beach. We swam and sunbathed all the morning, and looked over a Temple built right on the beach. Had lunch in van. Peter very sunburnt – mainly his own fault, he won’t come back often enough for more Skoll. Came back to hostel about 7.00 and gave the use of our bathroom to the others who all had showers.

Friday April 19th
Peter’s back very sore. Washed all our clothes. Got Dormobile on to Quay for loading in the afternoon and came back in taxi – had hoped we might be allowed to sleep on board that night, but the Agents said no. Both hot and tired and rested and wrote letters home in afternoon. Ordered taxi to take us to ship in the morning.