Malaysia

Friday April 26th
Reached Penang 6.00 a.m. Immigration will only allow us 1 month’s permit to stay in Malaya. At the end of that time we must apply for an extension. They really are maddening. Boon Leong, and David Denning of Harpers met the ship – very unexpected and most kind. David insisted we stay with them as we couldn’t get the van unloaded until after Customs had closed. Boon Leong took us to his house for a drink and then took us along to the Dennings. They are out this evening, but we are being very well looked after – an early night for both of us I think.

We have a luxurious air-conditioned bedroom each, so Peter is freed from my snoring at last!

(Ooi Boon Leong was Carreras agent in Penang at the time we lived in Singapore; he and his wife became close friends of my parents.)

Saturday April 27th
Spent morning getting van cleared through Customs with the aid of Boon Leong’s car and driver, all of which made life a lot easier. Lunch with the Dennings who have asked us to stay on another night.

Took Ooi Boon Leong and Mrs Ooi out for Chinese Dinner in the evening. Gorgeous to be eating Chinese food again. Made arrangements to have the van serviced properly at Orchard Motors (Vauxhall Agents) on Monday. We have serviced it (or rather, Peter has) as far as possible on the journey, but it should now have a proper overhaul. Peter did some very satisfactory shopping in the afternoon and now has a respectable pair of shorts and a new shirt, drip dry.

Sunday April 28th
Boon Leong took us to The Lone Pine Hotel for curry lunch and a swim – lovely. Back to the Dennings to change, and then back to Boon Leong’s for dinner – fried rice and beef and ginger – the latter being one of my favourite Chinese dishes.

Monday April 29th
Took the Dormobile into Orchard Motors. Went up Penang Hill in the Railway with our nets. Very few butterflies about but Peter made our first catch – a specimen we have not got – on the way up in the train, by sticking his net out of the window and scooping it in. Very crafty. Had lunch in the Penang Hill Hotel. Decided to walk down – big mistake, no butterflies to be seen, and it was miles round the hill before we reached the bottom – I am covered with blisters, and can only hobble round in flip-flops.

Arrived exhausted at Boon Leong’s, where we are now staying. Went out for satays and spring rolls. They have kindly lent us their bedroom, which is very kind, and they have moved into a back room.

Jim McIntyre phoned up from K.L. – we shall look them up when we arrive. They go on leave in May, pity.

(Jim McIntyre was a Commander RNVR in Singapore with my father. His wife Barbara was a SWAN. They later retired to Darwin.)

Tuesday April 30th
Went up Hill after breakfast, but it was cloudy so we came down again. Did some shopping and arranged to have revolving Japanese fan fitted to interior of van. It works off the battery. Dennings came round to Boon Leong’s in the evening and Mrs Ooi made delicious Inche Cabin. Stayed the night there again.

Wednesday May 1st
Collected Van in the morning and set off across in the ferry en route for K.L. Stopped at tea-time about 1 mile from Batu Gajah (south of Ipoh on the main trunk road south). Took van down track off road by bridge and parked beside river. A really idyllic camping spot. Surprisingly enough, although it was late in the day, we caught quite a number of butterflies. Were pleased with them as they were some we had not got – Atrophaneura – set one or two, and left the others in paper. Eaten alive by mosquitos all night, and nearly went mad. It is such a beautiful camping spot – pity about the mozzies.

Thursday May 2nd
Went into Batu Gajah village early to buy eggs and bread for breakfast. Back to pitch by stream for breakfast. Stayed there a bit to see if there was anything flying, but no luck, so set off about midday for K.L., arriving early afternoon. Wonderful road down. Picked up mail from Chartered Bank, which we are using as our Poste Restante, as well as having an arrangement with them to cash cheques. Went straight to Garry MacDonald’s flat (Harpers block) where Jim and Barbara are staying. Lovely to see them again. They have kindly arranged that we can have the periodic use of an empty Harper’s flat above them, so are staying there tonight. Lovely flat – air-conditioned bedroom, baths, etc. Khim MacDonald says we can eat with them whenever we want. Very kind.

(Khim MacDonald was a talented artist, and gave us a large watercolour of a fishing sampan and junks.)

Friday May 3rd
Shopped in morning – spare butterfly nets etc. Went to Doctor who gave Peter a prescription as his tummy is playing up again. Thought it was cured, but it isn’t. Had interview with Straits Times who are interested in our trip.

Saturday May 4th
Set off a.m. for 13th milestone, Bentong Road (Gombak Valley) outside K.L. and found track we were looking for beside a stream. Quite a lot of butterflies around – caught one Brookie.

(“Brookie” was our name for Rajah Brooke’s Birdwing, Trogonoptera brookiana, arguably the most beautiful and spectacular butterfly of the Malay Peninsula.)

Drove to St. Andrews Estate, Batang Berjuntai, and arrived at tea-time, to meet the Flemings – Alix and Wicky. Discussed butterflying and they gave us a lot of tips on good places to go to. Stayed on for dinner – lots of drinks before, and wine with dinner, and we finally left at 11.00 p.m., rather the worse for wear, and not knowing where we were going to sleep.

(Wicky Fleming had been a rubber planter in Malaya since before the war, and was one of the foremost Malayan butterfly collectors of his time. We had been given an introduction to the Flemings at the time we lived in Singapore, but had never actually met them. Their advice and knowledge were invaluable to the success of our own collecting. They later published a book: Butterflies of West Malaysia & Singapore, Classey Publications (1975). Their collection is now in Singapore.)
http://butterflycircle.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/celebrating-homecoming.html

Drove a little way down the road and slid quietly into the entrance of another rubber estate, where we parked – knew we were trespassing, but had nowhere else to go. Lit mosquito coils which we had bought in Batu Gajah and placed them in doorways of van. Very effective. Were woken up by Police at 2.00 a.m. asking what we were doing there, but they let us stay.

Sunday May 5th
Got up early before tappers arrived and drove to lay-by where we made coffee. Then had breakfast – eggs.

Drove to Forest Reserve, Kepong, but very little flying, so we returned to Bentong Road track (13th M/S) which we have decided is a good camping spot, as there is a river to wash in, and although it is secluded, it is not deep in the heart of the jungle, and not too far off the road, so should be safe. Caught one Brookie – evening flight evidently – had swim, supper and turned in for the night.

Monday May 6th
Stayed at Bentong Road by stream for morning – not much around so had snack lunch in Dormobile, and then returned to flat, having picked up mail. Had drinks in the evening in MacDonalds’ flat and then went out for Jim and Barbara’s farewell party – about 18 of us – Chinese meal at The Pines. Good evening.

Tuesday May 7th
Spent morning at Bentong Road track again. Caught quite a bit of new stuff – various Euploea. Then back to flat to be interviewed by man from Goodyear tyres. As we got all the way here with no punctures we thought they might be interested in us for advertising purposes. He wants to contact his advertising agency and will probably arrange, later on, for us to be photographed with the van. Hope it will prove lucrative. Collected Straits Times with our write-up in – ghastly photograph!

Wednesday May 8th
Dealt with insurance for van (Third Party) for homeward trip – are told it will take weeks – only hope it will be buttoned up before we leave in June. Have made arrangements to return in “Rajula” to Madras on June 22nd. It does not leave a great deal of time. Peter to Doctor again – tummy still bothering him again. New pills which we hope will do the trick this time. Snack supper at MacDonalds.

Thursday May 9th
Most successful morning down track in Gombak Valley. 2 Brookies and a Birdwing and several new species of Polyura. We have been invited to Sun Hoe’s house for supper tonight. Sun Hoe arranged to meet us at the Caltex Garage near the Merlin and lead us to his house. All the family were there except Charlie. Super food.

(Yap Sun Hoe was Carreras agent in Kuala Lumpur at the time we lived in Singapore; he and his wife became close friends of my parents.)

Friday May 10th
Bentong Road again – disappointing. Rested in afternoon and went out for satays in the evening.

Saturday May 11th
Were invited by the Flemings to stay a few days with them at their Estate (Batang Berjuntai). Decided to butterfly on the way up there and arrive about tea-time. Weather dicey and not much sun, so there was not much about. Got to St. Andrews at tea-time, and caught quite a few late flying butterflies in their garden after tea. Lots of drinks and late dinner.

Sunday May 12th
Got some more new species in garden, and then the Flemings took us down a rather smelly and mosquito-ridden drain, where we got a lot of new and interesting stuff. They know so much more about this game than we do, and can always identify what we have caught. We spent last night looking at their collections, which are truly fabulous. Full of envy, and more determined than ever to bring back something interesting.

A plague of bats has hit their house – bats flying everywhere as soon as the light goes. Wicky catches them in his butterfly net to everyone’s amusement. They are in the bedrooms too, but the only thing to do is ignore them and hope they will stay asleep.

Monday May 13th
Rained unfortunately so it was not worth taking nets out. Had a swim at the Berjuntai Club. They have a splendid cookie, with a mouthful of chromium teeth who usually manages to produce dinner a good hour after the time it was ordered for – he’s good value, but very friendly and pleasant to us.

Tuesday May 14th
Set off in the morning for Bukit Tarek where we had assurance of catching a lot of new stuff we had not got and would not be likely to find elsewhere. One species, in particular, we were after. Only 13 are known to have been captured, but quite a few had been seen by the Flemings this year, so it looked hopeful for us. Its name is Charaxes solon echo, and is mentioned in Jimmy Hislop’s Book “The Company of Animals” as being an exciting catch. We set off with really stinking and fruity bad prawns, as bait, which we laid all along the track – holding our noses as we went. The Charaxes group, in particular go for this delicacy, and are easy to catch while resting on them, as they get very drunk and dopey. Got a mass of new stuff – all of which we were thrilled with, and couldn’t wait to get back to set. Had an excellent picnic lunch – sandwiches and wine, in the car, and then went off on the chase again. Just as we were about to leave, we spotted one of the solons on a pile of prawns, and caught it. Great jubilation all round, and we have at least got one of the rarities we set out to capture on this trip, as well as all the other ones we had not got.

(The Company of Animals, by Ronald McKie, Angus & Robertson, 1965. This book is a biography of Jimmy Hislop, a legendary 20th-century game ranger and butterfly collector in Malaya. He says, “Charaxes solon echo is so rare that it hasn’t been seen for a generation”. We caught 11 specimens, and later donated a male and female to the Natural History Museum in London, since they did not have a specimen in their collection.)

Wednesday May 5th
Got up at the unearthly hour of 5.30 and set off at the same time as the Flemings, for Frasers Hill – met at the Gap Hostel for breakfast with them, and went up the one way stretch on the 9 o’clock gate. Settled in at the Convalescent Home, where we are all staying, and then went off with our nets and looked round various gardens etc. for butterflies – got one or two new ones. Met the Flemings for drink at the Tavern, after which Peter and I went down to the waterfall and had a snack lunch in the Dormobile. It then poured with rain – pity – so returned to Hotel and had hot bath before drinks and dinner. We aim to stay here about 5 days or so – according to what the weather does (not looking very promising at the moment) 10 dollars per night for both of us in a double room – food extra.

Thursday May 6th
Went down to waterfall again – it is a good spot in good weather. Rather cloudy, but we caught one or two – several Helens and some map-wings, one type which we have not got.

Friday May 7th
Weather still not good – very overcast, but we make the most of the odd bright interval. We have managed to capture males and females of the Ixias group, which we have been after, so are pleased with those. There is a splendid Amah here, who the Flemings have christened ‘‘Hari hari ujan” (Malay for “Everyday it rains” as this is how she greets us every morning at breakfast. Unfortunately she seems to be correct in her pessimistic forecasts at the moment.

Saturday May 18th
We have been determined to get up a mountain here called Bukit Jeriau, as the Flemings tell us it is full of species that are not found anywhere else and we cannot fail to increase our collection enormously. So far the summit has been enveloped in cloud each day, and today does not look too hopeful, but as we are leaving Frasers tomorrow, today is our last chance and we must risk it.

Went up the hill, having parked the car at the foot of it. The pathway up Jeriau was very overgrown and the entrance to it invisible, but the Flemings had shown us where to find it. After a good haul up the last bit, pulling ourselves up by tree-roots, we reached the summit. Had an hour and a half bringing in a mass of new things, before the heavens opened. Soaked to the skin in two minutes – hid in the undergrowth and when it became obvious that the rain wasn’t going to let up we went off down the track and back to the van – hot coffee to warm ourselves and then back to the hotel for a hot bath.

Left parang on top of Jeriau unfortunately. We needed it to hack away branches etc. Very pleased with what we’ve caught but disappointed that our catching time was so limited. Peter picked up a leech and two ticks which were buried right beneath his skin – pulled them out with my eye-brow tweezers.

Sorry it is our last night up Frasers Hill. We haven’t been very lucky with the weather, but have still managed to get quite a bit.

Sunday May 19th
Caught the 12.00 midday gate down from Frasers – drove straight to track in Gombak Valley – grown very attached to it; it now seems like home. Had a cup of tea and then, for a change, went to nearby Kampong for Muslim Mee. Back to track for the night – surprisingly cool and we slept in sleeping bags.

Monday May 20th
Stayed down the track and caught masses of new species – best day ever in this spot. Back to K.L. after snack lunch in van – picked up mail. Went round to Sun Hoe at 6.00 and they took us to Brickfields for food – chicken and prawns. Sun Hoe has offered us the Humber and Yusof for shopping in the morning which will be a great help. He has also given us a bottle of Brandy (½-bot actually) for “medicinal purposes” as he is sure we shall have an accident on the way home. Very kind of him.

Tuesday May 21st
Yusof took us round the shops – dealt with immigration and now have permit to stay another month. Did a power of shopping. Went to see “Casino Royale” with Mrs Yap and Mollie – met Sun Hoe afterwards and had excellent Chinese food at roadside stall – duck. Back to Sun Hoe’s for a beer and then back to flat.

Wednesday May 22nd
Met George Khan (Goodyear advertising ) at 11.00 at Chartered Bank – went with him to Goodyears in Petaling Jaya. Had photographs taken beside van, had two advertising stickers stuck on sides of van for advertising and they gave us 150 dollars – useful. Cup of tea at George Khan’s.

Had dinner with the Seagroves – Italian Restaurant, nice evening. Back to bed and sat up in bed drinking Sun Hoe’s medicinal brandy with coke (disgusting mixture) till 3.30 a.m. Very silly.

Wednesday May 23rd
Shopped in morning. Wrote letters in the afternoon. Went to Sun Hoe in the evening – had food at their house. Duck and roast pork and vegetable dish. Delicious.

Friday May 24th
Sun Hoe took us to Forest Reserve for butterflying – quite fruitful and Sun Hoe caught a Helen – v. pleased with himself! Had satays at Kajang midday in shop – very good. Went out to Petaling Jaya in the evening with the Yaps (Sun Hoe) and had crabs – best I’ve ever eaten.

Saturday May 25th
Took ourselves to the Ampang Reservoir in the morning. Got quite a lot of Arhopalas. Set Butterflies in the afternoon. Have decided to leave here on Monday and go up to tea estate for butterflies – supposed to be a good spot. Round to Yaps for supper.

Sunday May 26th
Got talked in to going to have breakfast with Sun Hoe at some ungodly hour (Sunday of all days) at the Town House Hotel. Chinese food. Got up at 6.30!! Food good, but not very hungry at that time of the morning. Went to look over museum which is very interesting. Sun Hoe’s for lunch – Kwai Tiow and mangos. Supper Sun Hoes – fried chicken. Gorgeous.

Monday May 27th
Collected mail – left K.L. at midday for Tea Estate at Ginting Simpah – at top of the pass in Gombak Valley on Bentong Road. Slight difficulty in finding the right track up – the estate is disused now – but got there in the end. Weather not too good, but caught a few butterflies and set them back in the van. Slept at gate into estate. Terrific thunder and rain during the evening.

Tuesday May 28th
Went into estate again and combed it, but rather disappointing. Weather still not too good. We set what we caught – could have got one or two interesting ones, but hard to tell till they are off the boards. Slept in same place again. Must replenish water tomorrow.

Wednesday May 29th
Woke early – inspected rotting pineapple we had put down as bait yesterday, but there was nothing on it. Returned to track at 13th milestone, but as there was nothing flying, we went into K.L. and did some shopping. Had snack at Weld Supermarket and back to flat for last night. Supper with Sun Hoe – mushrooms, sweet and sour pork etc. Gave him a Brookie we had had mounted in a glass case. He seemed very pleased with it.

Thursday May 30th
Breakfast with Khim – left flat and spent day at 13th mile – caught several Brookies. Slept at 13th mile, after swim and supper, and butterfly setting.

Friday May 31st
Have decided to spend several days at Bukit Tarek track as there seem to be a lot of new things there we should like to catch. Set off in good time with the prawns we had bought yesterday (now very ripe) and drove the 50 miles to B. Tarek. On the way the speedometer reading came up to 10,000, so at that exact moment we stopped the van by the roadside to celebrate with a glass of sherry. Arrived at Bukit Tarek at 10.30 – laid prawn bait at odd intervals along the track over a ½ mile area. The track is laterite, and we put the prawns along the edge, each side. Caught 3 more solons – very pleased – nothing else of particular note. Drove back to 13th mile for the night, as we like it better than B. Tarek for sleeping. Caught 3 Helens on seepage on rock about 4.30. Set butterflies. Now pouring with rain. At breakfast this morning our gas cylinder, which has lasted since we left home gave out. Amazing it has hung on so long. Bought prawns for tomorrow.

Saturday June 1st
Got up in good time – bought prawns in Rawang market again for Sunday, on our way to Bukit Tarek. Drove on to B. Tarek, with yesterday’s prawns hung on outside of back door of van – very high. As long as we keep moving we don’t notice them, but it’s hell when you stop. Got several more solons. Met up accidently with Flemings and went back to their house for tea and shower. Stayed on for drinks and left about 8.15. Drove back to 13th mile – gave lift to 2 Indians working at leper colony in Kepong. After that we found a fair at Kepong which we went to – won a bag of sweets, 2 tins of apple juice and a bottle of stout. Had bowl of mee at Malay shop in Bentong Road. Arrived back at 13th mile at 11.00 p.m. Late night for us.

Sunday June 2nd
Went to Bukit Tarek again, armed with prawns. Not much around – think we have probably overdone this area temporarily, but it has been very fruitful and we have caught masses of new stuff. Lots of Charaxes we had not even heard of and several Chilasas – interesting ones and one that is rare. Have arranged to spend night at Sun Hoe’s house tonight. Poured with rain in the afternoon so we turned up at his house about 5.00. Had shower and took them out to meal. Ena, Pete and I are sleeping in one room (!) I slept on camp bed – eaten alive by mosquitos and there was a rat in the room. Did not sleep very well one way and another.

Monday June 3rd
Had breakfast at Town House Hotel again – not very hungry. Went shopping – got money and mail etc. Had hair done p.m. Asked Khim in for supper with us. Early bed.

Tuesday June 4th
Stayed last night with MacDonalds. Leaving K.L. area for good tomorrow. We are going up north, via Telok Anson. Peter had a letter from some girl after our newspaper article had come out, saying she wanted to meet him, so we have arranged to see her (unfortunately) at her home tomorrow. Her name is Faridatul Akmar binte Mahommad Ali (poor girl). I have rechristened her Cassius Clay. Went to 13th mile for last time. Had tea with Yaps – drinks with Seagroves and dinner with MacDonalds – took them out to some restaurant. Busy social whirl.

Wednesday June 5th
Left K.L. at 8.30 and drove to Telok Anson to find Peter’s bird. Arrived at her house at 11.30 – had cup of chocolate (?) and then went to her sister’s house where they very kindly gave us lunch – all rather curious and no-one ate with us which was embarrassing. Cassius Clay disappeared into the back regions and was not really on view again, and her younger sister (much more attractive) came and talked to us. Left at 2.30 (thankfully) and arrived at our original sleeping spot at Batu Gajah, (see Wed May 1st) where we shall spend the night. We use mosquito coils every night sleeping out in Malaya, as the mosquitos are ghastly. They (the coils) are extremely effective and mostly we sleep soundly with no bites – however, it is raining, and already the coils have gone out. Doubt if any of them will last the night, and we know from before, that this is an exceptionally bad place for mosquitos. It is however, quite one of the most attractive camping spots we have found here, and I have become most attached to it. I hate leaving it for the last time.

Thursday June 6th
Coils helped to keep mosquitos away fairly well, but we were still bothered with them, and it was quite the hottest night we’ve had. Spent tedious morning in Ipoh buying supplies and getting money from Chartered Bank. Then drove to Tapah where we filled water tanks and got Thermoses filled with iced water. Drove to between 13th/14th milestone up Cameron Highlands and turned off road to the right down to a bridge and stream – the only place we may catch the female Rajah Brooke which is what we after here.

MOMENTOUS DAY. Caught two female Brookianas one very good specimen, the other slightly tattered, but not too bad. Great thrill – thought we might never get one – prepared to wait forever though. Both flew over bridge about 4.00 p.m. which was the time we were told we might see them. Both heading in same direction. Caught 8 males. Very pleased with ourselves.

(Trogonoptera brookiana is very localised, but quite abundant in the few places that it is found. There are two subspecies of T. brookiana in the Malay Peninsula: trogon is found in the southern state of Johor, and albescens in the central highlands which is where we were collecting at this time. The female of albescens is – or at least was then – considered very rare because it was so seldom encountered, and was a prize catch for any collector. The males, on the other hand, are quite common. Very little is known about the life history of this species, but they are always found flying down streams. Where they come from and where they are going is unknown. On this trip I formed the opinion that, while the female may be rarer than the male, she is probably far more common than the literature suggests. While the male flies at ground level, the female flies down the same watercourses, but at canopy level, and is therefore seldom seen. On this particular bridge we were well above the level of the stream, and, I believe, in the zone frequented by the females.)

We have found a derelict house within 1 mile of our bridge where we shall spend the night. There is a garden tap for washing and cleaning teeth etc. There seems to be a Sakai village just up the road – in full view of the tap unfortunately, but if you hide behind a bush for undressing and make a leap for the tap for rinsing off the soap, you can just make it before they realise you are naked – I hope. Celebrated female Brookies with a glass of sherry each. Hideous thunderstorm in the night – battering all round us. Had to shut all doors and windows and the skylight – very hot inside.

Friday June 7th
Disappointing day – caught several male Brookianas and one or two small things of interest, but weather clamped down midday and no females came low enough to catch. Saw several flying very high. Slept night in garden of empty house again – have grown attached to this place and will be sorry to leave. Have to be on our way to Alor Star tomorrow en route for Langkawi Islands.

Saturday June 8th
Left house early-ish and had breakfast at Tapah Resthouse for a change. Caught one Brookie on the way down. Drove 200 miles to Alor Star – staying in Resthouse. Arrived at tea-time. Annoyed on signing register to find that they insist on me giving my age as well as Passport particulars – can’t think why. However, we’ve foxed them by giving my passport particulars and Peter’s age. Don’t think they know what to make of us. It seems very comfortable and very different from the old resthouses in the old days – sprung beds and a long bath with hot water – incredible luxury. Good dinner, but somewhat indifferent service and masses of mosquitos. Cockroaches in bathroom have to be seen to be believed – the biggest ever – they really are enormous and running about everywhere. Tomorrow is Peter’s Birthday – we shall celebrate our Birthdays together on our return to Penang in a few days time. We are both giving each other a new wallet.

Sunday June 9th
Happy Birthday to Pete. Left Alor Star about 11.00 a.m. and drove 30 miles or so to Kuala Perlis for ferry over to Langkawi. We are booked in at the Resthouse over there – the Flemings gave us the name and address etc. Left van outside police station and hope that they will keep a kindly eye on it – we have told them we are leaving it for a few days. Had bowl of mee in a coffee shop and went on board ferry – small boat. Loaded up with Chinese, Malays (most of them sea-sick) chickens, pineapples etc. – usual conglomeration, and the seats were remarkably hard. Hooted with laugher at polite notice informing us that if we didn’t have a ticket when the collector came round, we should be asked to leave the boat immediately – as the ticket chap didn’t appear till we were well out to sea, we watched with interest to see if anyone was without a ticket – no-one thrown to the sharks – pity. Trip over took 2¼ hours and when we arrived it was pouring with rain – real tropical downpour. However, we were very lucky as a Mr. Cowie, who manages the rubber estate here and is the only European on the Islands had come to meet us in his jeep, and drove us up to the resthouse. Wicky Fleming had told him we were arriving today. V. kind of him. We have gorgeous double room with our own sitting room cum verandah overlooking the sea. It all seems very comfortable. Nice sprung beds. Bill Cowie came in for a drink and brought us – for free – an acid can which we can use as a jerry can for petrol.

Monday June 10th
We have hired a very ancient Austin for 3 days. It has just been delivered, 9.30.

Set off to the Northern coast of the island to a place called Pasir Hitam (Black Sands) and had a very good day. Caught masses of new species – new to us that is. We had a hot sunny morning – ideal – and rain held off till 2.00 p.m.. It’s the rainy season here and apparently has poured unceasingly for days recently, so we can expect anything – at least we’ve had one fine morning.

Car quite fantastic. It belongs to the local fishmonger and is rather smelly as well as being almost completely clapped out. It has most of the same ailments Anthony’s car suffered from – wandering about the road aimlessly and has an almost complete lack of communication between the steering wheel and the front wheels, and if the brakes work at all, the car does a sharp pull to the right and we skid violently – it’s hilariously funny. The locals appear to know it, as most cyclists beat a hasty retreat into the nearest ditch when they see us approaching. (Probably they smell us first.)

Came back to resthouse and set butterflies – lots to gloat over. Masses of Euthalia we’ve never seen before and I think we’ve got to concentrate on getting these as we shan’t find them anywhere else.

Tuesday June 11th
Went off to spot recommended to us by the Flemings on Sungei Raya Estate (run by Bill Cowie). He led us there and Peter found the way home – I shouldn’t have had a clue. Caught lots of new and interesting stuff – mapwings we haven’t got and saw several Lamproptera which are what we are after here – all flying very high and fast and we didn’t get one. There is a tree they particularly like and we shall have to lie in wait and hope for the best. More new Euthalia too. Also caught Chilasa mahadeva – rare and mimicking Euploea. Car got stuck in the mud and we had to be pushed out by two rubber tappers.

Wednesday June 12th
Went to Pasir Hitam again – good weather after early rain. After midday we returned to the rubber estate. Caught three Lamproptera – one on the wing and two sitting in a muddy puddle. Very pleased. Must set at least one of them immediately in case of accidents. On the way back the clutch went, but we managed to get back all right – in one gear all the way. Boon Leong’s salesman turned up at 6.00 with mail for us from Penang G.P.O. and made arrangements to take Peter out fishing tomorrow. Paid 45 dollars for hire of car which was collected – hope they fix the clutch.

Thursday June 13th
Peter off fishing at 8.45. I washed all the clothes ready for our departure – am practically reduced to walking round in a towel now. Lay on the beach the rest of the day sunbathing. Peter arrived back about 8.00 – had good day.

Very nice resthouse and people pleasant and food good. Sorry to be leaving. Set Palinuras caught at Pasir Hitam – good find, but it is missing most of both tails.

Friday June 14th
Took photograph of view of the sea from our verandah before leaving resthouse. Bill Cowie kindly drove us to the jetty in his jeep and we returned in the same boat to the mainland.

Picked up van which appears to be intact. Drove to Penang and picked up mail. Are celebrating both our Birthdays tonight. Have booked in to the Cathay Hotel – pretty crumby joint but all we can afford. Large bedroom with curious washing facilities. Went out to the Ambassador for dinner. Very good meal and really did ourselves well. Drinks first followed by wine with our meal and liqueurs after. Met up in the bar with some very drunken types off the Benvannock (in Port) and went back to their ship with them. After they had put one drunk to bed we sat in someone’s cabin drinking beer out of the cans. Got to bed at 4.30.

Saturday June 15th
Happy Birthday to me. Woke up feeling ghastly – not a very happy Birthday. Went to Harpers and finalised our sailing arrangements on “Rajula” for 22nd. Saw Boon Leong who is getting two new tyres for us. Went on board Benvannock for a beer. Set off for Sik – North Malaya – about midday. Have camped off the road in a field about 10 miles past Sik. Pouring with rain and we are battened down and rather hot.

Sunday June 16th
Slept soundly – went off about 8.00 a.m. to buy eggs for breakfast which we cooked by the roadside. Drove up to the Thai border hoping to cross into Thailand for a look, but weren’t allowed in as we hadn’t got visas. These would have had to be obtained in Penang – pity we didn’t think of it sooner.

Rained all day so no butterflying. It is the rainy season in the north so we have been lucky on the whole. We have been parked since lunchtime down what we hope is the track recommended to us by the Flemings. We are in the middle of a Kampong, and the track looks good for butterflying. The locals have spent the entire evening and afternoon standing in the doorway of the van gazing at us – a bit putting off, though we should be used to it by now, and I am dying to spend a penny which I can’t do – doubt if I shall last out till darkness falls. However, they are very friendly, and have even invited us to their houses – we gather, to sleep, but we are staying put.

Monday June 17th
Slept well – villagers having disappeared when it got dark – thank goodness. Had great success down the lane with butterflies. There is masses of stuff here we should never find further south – new Euploea and Euthalia – also lots of water buffalo, which we avoid carefully. I am terrified of them. Cleaned out van in afternoon when it clouded over, and fed our friends on Disprin, cough mixture, etc. – all the children appear to have some ailment. They have been with us all afternoon again. They have provided us with lots of fresh limes – rather unripe but I have made fresh lime for us to drink. It is hot and we are always thirsty. Malay dialect different here from that spoken in the south and I can’t always understand them

Tuesday June 18th
Went off to nearest village, Kuala Narang, to buy eggs for breakfast. On the way back we went down a track we liked the look of and got stuck in the mud. I stayed with the van and Peter walked and hitch-hiked to K. Narang where he found a Police jeep which brought him back and towed us out. More butterflying with great success down our original track, where we are parked again for the night. Our last.

Wednesday June 19th
Back to Penang. Staying with Boon Leong. Stocked up with provisions for journey back at Cold Storage – not much variety – wish we had the K.L. Supermarkets to buy from. Took van in for servicing at Orchard Motors.

Thursday June 20th
Peter fishing all day with Boon Leong, at sea. Mrs Ooi and I went to Snake Temple and had lunch at cafe overlooking the sea at Batu Manug. Wrote letters p.m. Peter returned about 7.00 p.m. having caught a 14 lb mackerel – very pleased with himself!

Friday June 21st
Fetched van and loaded it up. Took it to Docks at 3.30 – ran out of petrol on the way, but luckily were near a garage. Took the Oois out for satays in the evening. Last we shall have.