Italy, France & Home
Sunday August 11th
Red letter day – Peter had a shave and wash – nothing
better to do with himself. Cleaned interior of van thoroughly – cupboards and
all. To our surprise, the mechanic appeared at midday with a new universal
joint – paid for it again with our A.A. Vouchers which they claim back when we
get home – but it saves on ready money. Set off with high hopes – v. efficient
Yugoslav/Italian Customs – through in 10 minutes – they have probably been
warned about us and don’t want us broken down on their doorstep for ever.
Italians appear to welcome tourists – free towing when you break down (should
get our money’s worth here) and vouchers for 3 gallons of petrol per day at
reduced prices (40% off). Got to within 30 miles of Venice – along wonderful
motorway – when universal joint went again – it only took us 140 miles this
time. Rang up A.A. who towed us to their garage at San Dona di Piave, but we
were not allowed to sleep in the garage in the van so had to go to a hotel –
vast expense. Had a bath – great luxury – then dinner and a game of chess and
bed.
Speedometer Reading: 19011 Mileage: 148
Monday August 12th
Got up in good time and over to the A.A. Garage having
packed bags and settled up with hotel. Took hotel chap over with us as he
speaks a little English and have been battling with them to find out the cause
of the trouble, not just replace the joint once again. After a lot of
explaining and gesticulating and everyone getting overexcited, they have discovered
that the socket which holds the joint is also damaged, so they have replaced
this as well. Thank Goodness they seem to have a good array of spares. They now
reckon our brake linings are in bad shape – both rear brakes have chunks broken
off the linings and one joint has the screws and bolts bent and twisted inside
the hub. It joins the two brake linings together. After sewing us all up again
they tested the car and decided we’d never get home in it so all the
differential was dismantled. This is what we have wanted all along. They have opened
up the differential and tightened up the cogs, tested it and reckon we might
get home. After 10 miles driving we are not too optimistic as it sounds the same
as ever. We left at 8.00 – 11 hours work put in on us which was really
efficient. As it was nearly dark, we have put up at a campsite near Venice.
Speedometer Reading: 19039 Mileage: 28
Tuesday August 13th
Had a tedious night at the campsite which turned out to
be right beside the Airport. Planes taking off and landing continuously all
night. Set off early and drove through Venice and on to the Venice/Milan
Autostrada (Motorway). After about 50 miles there was an almighty crash with no
warning at all, and the prop-shaft and half the insides of the rear end
clattered into the road. We enlisted the aid of the A.C.I. (affiliated to the
A.A. of G.B.) and were towed to Garage. This is getting monotonous. This time,
the universal joint is still intact, unbelievably, but the whole hub, joining
the shaft to the differential had broken. With luck this will be the basic
cause of our troubles, and if a spare can be found (this is proving tricky) we
may find we are roadworthy again. They could not get a spare for the broken
part so very ingeniously turned one themselves (full marks) – also straightened
the propeller-shaft as they found this was very bent and curved. They have
renewed the universal joint at the gearbox end as this was damaged too. On
putting us together again, we still made awful noises as before, so, as work is
finished for today, they are opening it up again tomorrow. We are sleeping in
the garage precincts thank goodness – extremely cold for summer in Italy.
Wednesday August 14th
Went quite berserk last night and consumed 3½ bottles of
wine (2/- a bottle or less). Nasty hangover this morning. Having opened us up,
they find that the crown and pinion were badly worn and were causing most of
the trouble and would cause something else to go before we got much further. No
spare here so Peter phoned up the Paris A.A. giving details, and they will have
a spare flown out from England. They hope it will arrive by the end of this
week, but it may take until early next week.
While we are stuck here we are allowed to live in the Dormobile in the Garage precincts. Our money would never have lasted out if we had had to go to a hotel – so we are very lucky that they are being so kind. Went shopping – bought some Chianti (Bianco) very cheaply. As tomorrow is a public holiday we have shopped for 2 days. Found a shop selling roast chickens (done on a spit) hot, so at 7.30 while I cooked the veg., Peter went down and bought one. Ate it hot – delicious, and we are spinning it out to have the rest cold tomorrow, plus making a snack lunch. About 10/- not bad value. Wrote letters and posted them.
Thursday August 15th
Had a good sleep – needed it. Cleaned van and washed
clothes, as it is sunny today for the first day for some time, and a bit
warmer. It is a public holiday in Italy today – not sure why – and this
afternoon we watched some marathon roller skating in the Square which is near
the garage – quite interesting and exciting, otherwise getting rather bored.
Played chess and read. In the evening we watched roller skating round the
square again – this time by flood-light. It has been sunny and warmer the last
couple of days thank goodness. They let off fireworks this evening after dark
from a castle on a hill which we can see from the Dormobile.
Friday August 16th
Went shopping and as we are running very low on Calor
Gas we took an empty cylinder to be refilled. It is not Calor Gas here, but
something similar (we hope). Their fittings are not the same as ours, but they
managed to adapt it somehow. Walked back to the van with it – rather heavy.
Sewed, read and played chess – wondering when the hell the ruddy plane will
arrive with our spares. Calor Gas must be O.K. as we didn’t blow up.
Saturday August 17th
Had a boring day doing nothing. No sign of our spares
yet – we are wondering just how long it will take Britain to get them on a
plane. They have enquired this end and there is nothing for us at Venice Airport.
Bought another roast chicken – they are good value as we make them last for three
meals. Money running very low – if we do not get away from here soon, we shall
have to cable for money which will cause further delay. Have had to cut down
drastically on cigarettes – have finished cheap Turkish ones which were better
than nothing – cigarettes here are at English prices.
Sunday August 18th
Watched more roller skating – mostly women this morning.
It seems to be very much a National sport. It rained during the afternoon – v.
chilly. Italy appears to be a prosperous country – most people seem
well-dressed and own expensive cars. At least, we have seen no poor people
around.
Monday August 19th
Still no sign of our spares. Got the Garage to check
that they were definitely not at Venice Airport and then put another call through
to the A.A. in Paris. They told us that our order had been placed with London five minutes
after our original call to them (midday last Wed. 13th) and they were surprised nothing has happened.
The normal routine is to send us, or the garage, a cable as soon as the part is
on the plane, but we have so far received no cable. Played chess and cards etc,.
Evening – still no sign of cable or spares.
Tuesday August 20th
Washed clothes etc. We have just been told that a cable
arrived about 10.00 to say that our spares would be on the plane arriving early
tomorrow. The garage will contact the airport and either they will send them
out or the garage will fetch them. With luck we should get off tomorrow. Money
getting a bit desperate. Played rummy and chess.
Wednesday August 21st
The garage phoned up the airport this morning and the
spares will be cleared through customs and delivered to Vicenza by 2.00.
7.00 p.m. Big delay for some unknown reason but parcel has just arrived. All is well and they have sent the right parts – we were quite expecting to receive all the wrong bits – think we are growing embittered and somewhat pessimistic. However, it is too late to start work tonight.
Blast the airport for not bothering. Domani Mattina.
Thursday August 22nd
Got up early and had breakfast by 7.00 so as to be ready
for them to start on the van. It took most of the day to put it all together
again, and then we still had a vibrazione so they removed the front wheels and
balanced them and then reckoned we were reasonably O.K. They’ve said we are not
to drive more than 50 m.p.h. or we will cause friction on the differential
cogs. Cannot believe we are really on our way again at last. Posted letter home
to say we were roadworthy and on our way. Got straight on to Autostrada and
kept up constant 50 m.p.h. Wonderful road – pity we can’t go a bit faster.
Expensive though – 10/- toll Milan to Turin. Parked for night in lay-by on side
of Autostrada. Will be very noisy I’m afraid. Peter mended rear lights which
have been u/s.
Speedometer: 19245 Mileage: 151
Friday August 23rd
Rather noisy night – got up at 5.30 and on road at 6.00.
Drove on Autostrada as far as Turin where we took the wrong road and had a
slightly longer route to Nice. From Nice, drove along the Côte d’Azur to St. Clair,
Le Lavandou, where we found the Ward’s campsite without much difficulty. Looked
for them on the beach but no sign of them. Made coffee in the van. Have booked
in at the Campsite for the night. Arrived at St. Clair at 4.00 p.m. Put watches
back one hour (making it then 3.00 p.m.). Joan Ward and Philippa Holberton
turned up about 7.00 and said, “Christ Almighty look who’s here; have a gin,”
which was what I had predicted she would say. Had drinks in their lean-to tent
and then went out for a very good meal in Le Lavandou – 12 francs each for 3
courses and wine. Went back to their tent and stayed up very late drinking
coffee and brandy. Great fun to meet up with them and have a good evening out.
Speedometer: 19558 Mileage: 313
(My mother has very tactfully refrained from explaining why we missed our road out of Italy and into France. The problem was that the Italians had loads of sign-posts to a town called “Francia” that we couldn’t find on our map. However, we did know that this particular town was not on our route, so we avoided going in that direction. The penny finally dropped, we looked at each other rather sheepishly, and agreed never to reveal our shame to anyone else.)
Saturday August 24th
Went into Le Lavandou with Joan and the Holbertons (they
have all joined up together for their holiday) – came back and lay on the beach
all day in the sun. Nice and hot but very crowded after our lovely empty
beaches we enjoyed in Turkey. Sea far too cold for me but Peter swam. Did
shopping for the week-end. Joan has let me have £20 worth of francs which she
doesn’t need out of her allowance. This is a boon as we shouldn’t have had
enough money to pay for our passage over to Jersey. Had drinks in the Ward’s
caravan and brought our supper over to eat with them, also our bottle of
Chianti.
Sunday August 25th
Left Le Lavandou at 5.45 a.m – determined to do at least
400 miles as a penance for spending 2 nights on the Côte d’Azur and lazing in
the sun. Must get to St Malo or one of the jumping off places for Jersey by
Tuesday evening. Terrible lot of traffic on the roads and some hold-ups with
complete bottle-necks, but we had a lot of fast stretches and a couple of
excellent Motorways – came to rest for the night at 7.00 down side-lane off
main Bourges – Tours road. Quite a red-letter day today. We have reached 20,000
on the clock and have done the largest daily mileage of the trip.
Speedometer: 20022 Mileage: 464
Monday August 26th
Got away in good time – 6.00-ish and did the 280 miles
to Granville by 1.30. Found the Tourist Bureau who make the bookings on the
Duchesse de Normandie which was due to sail for Jersey at 8.30 the following
morning. No-one could say whether we could or could not book space for the van
for tomorrow, and we were told to come back between 4 and 5 o’clock. They just
couldn’t care less. Rather downcast we went off and had some lunch at a “Fruits
de Mer” café on the waterfront. Spent every last bean we possessed as we were
very hungry, and just hoped we would be back in Jersey before long. We had
still got one small tin of mince in the van to stave off starvation. We were
lucky, in the cafe, to get talking to two Jerseymen – Brian Le Balastier and his
wife we subsequently learned – and they suggested that as the Duchesse did not
appear to be very fruitful, and our chances of getting the van on her were slim
at such short notice, that we might get on a small cargo vessel leaving
Granville that night for Jersey, and which he was shipping his boat back on. We
found the Captain on the quay and Brian introduced us and he agreed to take us.
We were duly lashed to the top of one of the hatches, in company with two
boats, one belonging to the Le Balastiers and the other to a family called
Matthew (also on board) who, it turned out we had got to know when we all
stayed at the same hotel in Switzerland – and remembered R.’s skiing accident. Were
fed on gin and sandwiches – sea rough and it was cold. Very kind of the Captain
to take us as I don’t think it is really legal and there was no charge except for
crane-age. Peter took over the van with some bird he’d picked up and as I
obviously wasn’t wanted I spent the journey either in the Captain’s cabin where
I felt sick, or on deck where it was windy and very cold. Dodged about between
the two and was glad to reach Jersey. We’d rung the family from the Yacht Club
at Granville so they were all there to meet us.
Terrific welcome from them – champagne and presents galore and the house full of flowers – I don’t think they thought they’d ever see us again.
Speedometer: 20302 Mileage: 280